Beyond sustainability narratives: exploring Generation Z's shopping motivations in vintage fashion

Generation Z (or Gen Z) is reshaping fashion trends with a growing interest in vintage clothing. Although sustainability is often assumed to drive their choices, little research has explored their specific motivations within this context. This study combines Generational Cohort Theory and Self-­ Determination Theory to examine the intrinsic and extrinsic drivers of Gen Z's vintage fashion shopping. A mixed-­ methods approach was used: a focus group (Study 1) informed a survey of 392 Italian respondents (Study 2). Results show that hedonic motivations, especially the need for uniqueness and fashion involvement, along with budget considerations, are key factors. In contrast, sustainability and anti-­ consumerist ideals had limited influence. Despite their digital fluency, Gen Z prefers offline vintage shopping for its experiential and leisure appeal, as leisure time positively influences offline purchase intent. These findings underscore the primacy of self-­ expression and experience over ideological motives and offer guidance for retailers to enhance offline engagement, whereas online platforms should capitalize on their functional advantages, such as search efficiency and product variety